If you have searched for
fencing near me, you will already know that good fence installation begins long before a post goes in the ground. I have installed, repaired, and replaced thousands of fences across many sites. I have seen what lasts and what fails. This guide sets out a clear plan you can follow, whether you want to understand a quote, check work on site, or choose between repair and replacement. My aim is simple – fewer call-backs, longer service life, and a fence that looks straight and stays straight.
What fence installation includes
Fence installation is not one task. It is a sequence. Each step affects the next. Get the early steps right and the later steps tend to go well. Miss one step and problems build.
- Site survey, measurements, and boundary checks
- Choice of materials and layout
- Post specification and footing design
- Setting line, level, and spacing
- Panel or board installation and fixings
- Finishing details and handover
That is the flow I use on every project. It keeps decisions in order and reduces waste.
First step – survey and boundaries
Start with the boundary. Confirm the line with deeds or existing markers. Speak to neighbours if needed. A few minutes here avoids disputes. Mark the line with string. Note any trees, drains, manholes, or raised beds. Check access for materials. Measure total length and divide by your chosen bay width. Standard bays are 1.83 m for many panel systems, but you can mix sizes to fit the run. I also check wind exposure. Hilltop gardens and open plots need stronger posts and deeper footings. If the site holds water, allow for drainage.
Choosing materials that match the site
There is no single best fence. The right choice depends on use, exposure, and budget. Closeboard works well for privacy and strength. Good closeboard uses strong posts, solid rails, and proper fixings. Larch lap panels are common but can sag if posts and gravel boards are weak. Decorative panels need careful bracing. Composite boards resist rot and need less upkeep, but the sub-structure still matters.
When people ask about
composite fencing cost, I explain that the boards are part of the price, not the whole price. Posts, channels, caps, blades, fixings, delivery, and labour all add up. Corners and changes in height may need special trims. A clear plan prevents surprises.
Posts – timber, concrete, or steel
Posts take the load. They set the life of the fence. Timber posts are lighter and look warm, but they must be treated and sized for the job. Concrete posts resist rot and suit wet ground. Steel posts give a slim line and strong anchor points. I select based on exposure, soil, and the client’s plan for gates and future changes.
Post size and spacing
For most garden fences, 100 x 100 mm timber posts or slotted concrete posts work well at standard spacing. Increase the section or reduce spacing for high wind sites or tall fences. Keep heights legal and in line with local rules. Taller fences need more care with footing depth and bracing.
Footings and depth
Depth matters. The old rule of thumb is one third of the post in the ground, but I do not treat that as a fixed law. In clay, I dig deeper. In free-draining soil, I form a clean bell at the base. In sandy soil, I use more concrete and set a wider footing. I keep the top of the concrete sloped to shed water away from timber. For slotted concrete posts, I ensure the footing wraps the base with no voids.
Concrete, mix, and curing
A strong fence needs firm footings. Bagged post mix is fast, but I prefer a proper concrete mix for exposed sites. I batch to a consistent slump so every post sets the same. I brace posts while the mix cures. Rushing this step leads to lean and twist. Check line, level, and plumb from two sides. I give each post a final check before the concrete sets. That habit saves time later.
Gravel boards – protect the timber
A gravel board separates panels from the ground. Timber boards match a timber look but need treatment. Concrete boards last longer and suit panel systems. Composite boards can match composite panels. The point is simple – keep wet soil off timber. That single choice reduces rot and keeps panels clean. I also use gravel boards to step a fence on slopes.
Panels and closeboard – get the basics right
For closeboard, I fix arris rails or a suitable rail system, then board with even gaps and square tops. I cap the fence to shed water. For panels, I make sure every panel sits tight in the post slots and on the gravel board, with no rocking or gaps. I use proper clips, not short screws in thin ends. Stainless or coated fixings add life. I keep cut ends sealed. Neat work at this stage shows in the final line.
Dealing with slopes and steps
On sloping ground, you can rake the fence to follow the slope or step each bay. Raking suits open boards and some composite systems. Stepping works for closeboard and many panels. I plan the step pattern before digging post holes. This avoids half steps at the end. A string line set to the top of gravel boards helps me visualise the run and keeps steps even.
Wind load and bracing
Tall, solid fences catch wind. In exposed spots, I tighten bay spacing, increase post size, and set deeper footings. I may add concrete spurs to timber posts. Where looks matter, steel posts with reinforcement can carry the load with a slim face. Good design here stops rattle, lift, and lean after storms. That is how you avoid the
fence repair near me panic when the weather turns.
Gates – plan early, not late
A gate is a moving load. Plan the gate location and swing before digging. Use a larger section post for the hinge side. Hang the gate with proper hardware. I shim and test the swing before final fixes. Latch height, clearance, and stops all matter. Match the gate design to the fence style. If you plan for automation in the future, set posts and power routes now. Retrofits cost more.
Drainage and soil care
Fences often sit where water runs. I do not trap water against a neighbour’s plot. I avoid blocking vents or drains. I keep soil off timber and trim shrubs away from posts. Where water sits, I shape the ground or add a simple drain run. Good drainage helps posts and reduces frost heave.
Privacy, security, and noise
Most clients want privacy first. A 1.8 m closeboard with a cap and gravel board gives a clean, solid screen. For security, I specify robust posts, hidden fixings where possible, and good gate locks. For noise, solid mass helps more than thin boards. A double-boarded or acoustic panel can help, but cost and weight go up. Be clear on the goal before you choose a system.
Repair or replace – how to decide
Not every job needs a full new fence. If posts are sound, you can replace panels or rails and add concrete spurs to strengthen weak points. If posts have rotted or lean in multiple bays, a full replacement is often better value. I check:
- Post integrity at ground level
- Footing size and condition
- Panel or board damage spread
- Line, level, and ability to correct without full re-dig
A good contractor will explain the trade-off in plain terms and show you options.
Costs – what drives the number
People often ask for a single price per metre. It is not that simple. The following items move the needle:
- Material choice – softwood, hardwood, composite, steel, or concrete
- Post type and section size
- Footing depth and volume of concrete
- Site access and spoil removal
- Corners, steps, and gate openings
- Fixings and finishing details
Composite fencing cost reflects the board system, trims, and posts. It also reflects the time needed to fit each bay because composite needs tight tolerances for the best look. Timber closeboard is labour-heavy but uses simpler parts. Panel systems are fast but need accurate posts. If you get two quotes that differ a lot, check the specification line by line.
How to vet fencing companies near me
Search terms like
fencing companies near me,
fencers near me, and
fence company near me will bring up a long list. Focus on the basics. Look for clear, written quotes that state the post type, size, spacing, footing depth, and fixings. Ask for a plan on how the fence will step on a slope. Check insurance. Ask how waste will be removed. Ask how long concrete will cure before panels go in. Straight answers show experience. Short vague answers often lead to issues on site.
What a clear quote should include
I like quotes that read like a plan. Here is what I include and what you should look for:
- Description of fence type, height, and total run
- Post material, section size, spacing, and footing depth
- Gravel board type and height
- Panel or board type, rails, caps, and fixings
- Gate details, hardware, and swing
- Method for slopes, corners, and obstacles
- Waste removal and site clean down
- Start date, duration, and payment stages
- Warranty terms and what they cover
If a quote lacks these points, ask for a revision. It protects both sides.
Common mistakes I still see
I still see the same faults on
fence installation jobs that come to me for rescue work. Shallow footings that heave in frost. Posts set out of plumb and then forced into line with panels. No gravel board, so panels sit in wet soil. Nails or screws that rust out. Panels cut without sealing ends. Fixings into the thin parts of a panel frame. All of these lead to sag, rot, and rattles. The cure is simple – slow down on the early steps and check each stage.
Maintenance – small tasks that add years
A ell built fence still needs care. Keep soil and mulch off timber. Trim back ivy and hedges so they do not trap moisture. Check fixings each spring. Touch in cut ends and caps with suitable treatment. Clean composite boards with warm water and a soft brush. Keep gates adjusted so latches line up and hinges do not bind. Ten minutes here and there keeps the fence quiet and straight.
Timelines and what to expect on site
A standard back garden run can take one to three days for a small team, depending on access and the amount of digging. Day one sets out and digs holes. Day two sets posts and gravel boards. Day three completes panels, caps, and gates. In tight sites with lots of old concrete, add time. In clay or wet ground, allow extra curing time before loading the posts. Clear access, a skip on site, and a simple run of bays cut time and cost.
Health, safety, and neighbours
Good site manners matter. I protect paths, patios, and lawns. I fence off open holes at the end of each day. I keep noise down and plan cutting during reasonable hours. I speak to neighbours before I start if access or overhanging plants are involved. Most issues fade when people feel informed.
When you need a specialist fencing contractor near me
Most garden fences are straightforward if you follow a plan. Some jobs need a specialist. Examples include retaining structures that must hold soil, fence lines near public highways, tall security runs with deep foundations, and acoustic barriers. In these cases, you want
fencing contractors near me who can show you similar jobs and method statements. The right contractor will explain why the design is needed and what the build involves. Calm, clear detail is a good sign.
Style choices that also work hard
Looks matter. You still want strength. You can have both. Slatted screens give a light, modern look but need correct spacing and bracing. Hit-and-miss boards give privacy with better wind flow. Trellis works for the top section if you want height without a heavy face. Capping rails tidy the look and shed water. Metal caps on concrete posts add a neat finish and protect the core.
Fixings – small items that make a big difference
I still see thin, plain screws used on heavy panels. Use the right fixings. In marine or coastal areas, I choose stainless steel. In most inland sites, good coated screws are fine. Pre-drill where needed to avoid splits. Use proper panel clips in slotted posts. On closeboard, use ring shank nails or suitable screws for featheredge boards and space them with care. Fixings are a small part of the bill and a large part of the life.
Noise, movement, and rattle control
A fence that creaks in wind drives people mad. Movement often comes from loose posts or poor panel fit. I set tight tolerances at install. If a panel rattles in a slotted post, I use panel packers that suit the system rather than crude wedges. On gates, I fit adjustable hinges so I can tune the swing and keep latches aligned.
Environmental points
Timber should come from certified sources. Ask your contractor to confirm supply. Waste should be sorted, with old timber and panels taken to licensed sites. Concrete rubble can go for crush and reuse. Small steps like this add up across many projects.
What you can do before the team arrives
You can speed the job and cut cost with simple prep. Clear access. Move pots, furniture, and play gear. Mark any private cables or irrigation runs you have installed. Decide where you want the skip. Choose a safe spot for storing materials. Cover delicate surfaces near the work area. Agree a simple signal with the team for where to stack panels so they do not block doors.
A quick word on local searches
The phrases people use online often match the help they need.
Fence installation near me is about speed and trust.
Fencing contractors is about capability and scale.
Fencing services covers repair, replacement, and gates. Use clear terms when you brief a contractor. Plain language helps everyone understand the job.
A simple quality checklist for handover
At handover, walk the fence with the installer and check:
- Posts plumb and consistent height
- Gravel boards level or stepped cleanly
- Panels tight, secure, and aligned
- Caps straight and sealed
- Gates open and close without rub
- Site clear, waste removed, and tools accounted for
If something looks off, say so. A good contractor will put it right.
Final thought – strong basics, straight results
Fence installation is not a mystery. It is a method. Survey, choose the right materials, set sound posts, and fix panels with care. When every stage gets time and attention, the fence lasts and the line stays neat. If you want a simple overview of the options and a clear plan for your garden, take a look at our
fencing services and see how we set out a job from first visit to sign-off. If you need a local view on spec and layout, our guide to areas and approach on
fencing contractors will help you weigh up the choices and get a result that fits your home.
